London fashion week paid a glamorous tribute to designer Federica Cavenati, known as Kikka, who died in November at the age of 28 following a short and sudden illness.

The last collection Cavenati worked on was completed after his death by Marco Capaldo, his partner in life and their independent fashion brand 16Arlington, and presented on the catwalk in an emotional show on Sunday morning in Bloomsbury. .

“It was a celebration of the most beautiful person in my life,” Capaldo said backstage after the show. “I just hope I made her proud.”

The mood was dark but the clothes were anything but. Cavenati’s name was synonymous with effervescent party wear – maribou feathers, platform disco boots and barely there dance floor dresses – and that spirit carried on in snakeskin-print leather mini dresses, cut-out sequin jumpsuits and fine knit dresses. Many feathers used in the collection come from archives hand dyed by Cavenati a few years ago.

The collection was called Tears, further referenced by teardrops embroidered with crystal beads on white silk shirts. But there was a playfulness in the wet-look feather boas and acid-tipped fluffy bucket hats, which Capaldo said were true to the “sumptuously, fabulously generous” Cavenati who “was a luminous person”.

Alice Temperley presents her “Wild West” collection

Designer Alice Temperley has made sweeping changes during the pandemic to future-proof her label, moving her headquarters from London to Somerset, switching to local production where possible, branching out into homewares and planning an expansion from Somerset, a less expensive “younger sister” line. .

Temperley presented the first collection designed in her Ilminster studio at a showroom in the capital for London Fashion Week, but her heart remained in the countryside.

“I call it my Wild West collection, because it’s my love of Somerset with a bit of cowgirl escapism added,” the designer said, surrounded by jodhpur-style jeans, ponchos, flared skirts romantic dresses and bohemian dresses with flounces. A silver-studded leather jacket, inspired by a vintage belt from Temperley’s own wardrobe, nodded to James Dean, while rhinestone collared and polka-dot cocktail dresses referenced Dolly Let’s go.

The velvet trouser suits, which are a signature of the brand – “we can’t do them fast enough! – are made for fall in carnation pink and ice blue, with or without fitted cardigans. A shawl-collar trouser suit in striped British merino wool, made in Somerset, is the brand’s first tailored look to be entirely made in the UK.