Historically, when it comes to menswear, change happened slowly – the shift from flat pants to pleated pants took nearly a decade. But in recent seasons, men’s collections have started to evolve at a much faster speed, with masculine sensuality being given more prominence.
It was one of the main talking points of the Spring 2023 season. Gen Z’s liberation movement through genderless street looks – a sea of fun crop tops and see-throughs – and some very influential moments from the red carpet stars such as Timothée Chalamet and Lil Nas X, have definitely permeated the fashion subconscious – and it was about time.
Thom Browne has been playing with genderless fashion for a few years. When Oscar Isaac showed up on red carpets this year wearing Thom Browne skirt suits, no one blinked. But his Spring 2023 collection was truly groundbreaking by menswear standards. “The collection that Thom Browne showed on Sunday night was one of the most empowering of the week, with the designer feeling freer and wilder than ever,” WWD’s Samantha Conti wrote in her fashion review.
The collection featured an interesting contrast between its traditional suiting options, briefcases and top coats all covered in its signature spring tweed, with ultra-low rise trousers, crop tops and visible jock straps, resulting in a provocative new silhouette and modern that had everyone buzzing after the show.
“I thought, why not? The quality, play and proportions were great fun, and I wanted to push it. I think it’s time for people to start pushing again. Even with the fabrics and tailoring, the guys looked really masculine. I think it’s important that we all recognize the world we live in and how much more evolved everyone is — in some ways,” Browne said.
Another brand that played with proportions to allow for a provocative, genderless message was the young and influential brand EgonLab. Ultra-cropped leather shorts paired with oversized blazers, see-through sets and a few shirtless looks added a youthful outlook to the trend.
“I feel more and more free, so I want to explore more and more. Courrèges’ image has always been a little stiff, said designer Nicolas Di Felice. Her designs featuring cutouts at the chest and t-shirts that twisted sensually around the body were clear examples of this exploration. And by adding accessories, including pearl jewelry and neoprene thigh-high boots, the result was sexy and cool.
A barely there cropped tank top opening look at Rick Owens, open weave sweaters at Louis Vuitton, cropped knit shirts at Celine and sheer details at John Eliott, Dior Homme and Louis Gabriel Nouchi – to name a few. to name a few – were the main elements of this ongoing conversation that culminated in one of the season’s most provocative trends.